Top Ten Lesser Known Wine Grapes

Wine consumption has exploded here in the United States over the last decade. In 2009 we became the number one consumer of wine (by volume) consuming more than 750 million gallons of fermented grape juice. But of that astonishing number, almost 90% of the wines consumed were made up of one or more of the following grapes: Riesling, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (Shiraz). I have deemed these grapes "The Great 8." With some 5000+ grape varieties used in wine production, I wanted to give a shout out to the less common varieties. Here are the top ten lesser-known wine grapes.

1. Aligote

Aligote is a white wine producing grape varietal native to the Burgundy region of France. Often referred to as Burgundy's "other" white grape, it takes a back seat to the greater Chardonnay grape in the region. Aligote is thin-skinned and well known for its apparent, almost tangy acidity. In good vintages, when grown on the best sites in Burgundy, the grape can rival the quality Chardonnays of the region. In Burgundy, Aligote grows in Chablis, the Cote d'Or and the village of Bouzeron within the greater Cote Challonaise region. In Bouzeron, the Aligote variety is king making 100% of the wines produced.

Beyond wine, Aligote is known for its role in the production of Kir, a French liqueur from Burgundy made of white wine (Aligote) and black currants. Outside of Burgundy, the grape is gaining popularity in Eastern Europe and ex-soviet countries with plantings in Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, Moldova, and Georgia. The grape also grows in the United States. Producer Jed Steele makes a dynamite value white using Aligote from Washinton State under his Shooting Star line. Aligote can make some fun, refreshing wines when done well.

2. Picpoul (blanc)

Picpoul, meaning "lip stinger," is an ancient grape varietal native to the southern French region of Languedoc. After Phylloxera devastated Europe in the 19th century, the grape became almost extinct. It was revived in the 20th century by the then booming Vermouth industry. Today the grape's popularity continues to grow, and when done well makes fabulous crisp whites in the Midi, specifically from the Coteaux du Langeudoc Picpoul de Pinet. The wines from Picpoul de Pinet are dry, medium to full-bodied, and display a refreshing acidity with lemon flavors. A delightful find if you can get your hands on one.

3. Torrontes

Torrontes is native to the northwest Galicia region of Spain. Like many varietals, the grape found its way to South America and has become a staple varietal in Argentina over the last decade. The popularity of Argentinian wines in the new millennium resulted in an ocean of good quality wines from the country. Argentinian producers spent the early part of the 2000's creating a cult-like following for their signature Malbec grape, native to France.

As their portfolios grew many producers looked for a white wine producing varietal to share in the popularity of their famous red. For fear of creating a calling card with a Great 8 grape variety producers from the region found success in the lesser-known Torrontes grape. Today much of the quality Torrontes is grown in the warmer, northern Argentinian region of Salta. Torrontes from Argentina is full-bodied, clean, and refreshing with an incredibly aromatic profile that is almost Muscat-like, displaying aromas of flowers and lush green apples.

4. Verdejo

Verdejo is regarded as one of the highest quality white wine producing varietals in Spain. The grape, native to Spain, shows best in the Rueda region. In Rueda, the grape is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to make full-bodied, aromatic, herbaceous whites with nutty characteristics, that can age for the better part of a decade. Verdejo continues to gain international attention, with producers like Shaya (Jorge Ordonez) and Paso Y Paso making outstanding examples for under $15. Verdejo should not be confused with Verdelho, the Portuguese grape used in the production of Madeira.

5. Vermentino

Vermentino is a white wine producing grape variety that grows in both Italy and France. In Italy the grape is most popular on the island of Sardinia (Sardegna), most notably in the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG (DOCG is Italy's highest tier of quality wines). The grape also grows on the French island of Corsica, where it is sometimes called Malvoise de Corse because many believe it to be related to the Malvasia grape. The most exciting examples of Vermentino come from the South of France in the Languedoc and Rousillion regions as well as Provence. In Provence the grape is called Rolle. When done well, Vermentino makes white wines that can be described as aromatic and lively.

6. Bonarda

Bonarda is a red wine producing grape varietal native to Northwest Italy. In Italy the grape is best known for its work in the Oltrepo Pavese region of Lombardy, where it is used on its own and in blends. Outside of Italy, the grape flourishes in Argentina, where it's the second most widely planted red variety, shadowed only by Malbec.

In the 19th century Argentina won its independence from Spain. From 1870 to 1960 the country saw a steady flow of Italian migration, and today nearly 60% of the population has some degree of Italian descent. This is why we see such a presence of the Italian Bonarda variety. Because with travelers came culture, cuisine, and wine. In Argentina the grape is made into light, juicy reds. Like the Italians, Argentinian producers also use the grape in blends.

7. Cinsaut

Cinsaut, sometimes written Cinsault, is a red wine producing varietal most commonly found in Southern France. While French producers do make wine using just the Cinsaut grape, it's widely prized for its light, soft, juicy, perfume-like characteristics that make it a perfect grape for blending. In France, the grape can be found in the Languedoc, Provence, Rhone and Corsica regions. In the Rhone the grape is most notably blended in the production of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Outside of France, the varietal has plantings in Africa. In Northern Africa, Cinsaut is used in Algeria and Morocco making both red and rosé wines. In South Africa the grape's popularity stems from a totally different type of blending. The country's calling card is Pinotage. The Pinotage grape, like many of us, gets its name from its parents: Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. In South Africa, Cinsaut goes by the name Hermitage because it grows in the Hermitage region of the Rhone in France, hence the name Pino-tage. Outside of Africa, the grape has plantings in the United States, where California producers are experimenting with both single varietal Cinsault as well as blends.

8. Dolcetto

Dolcetto is a completely underrated red wine producing grape varietal best known for its work in Northwest Italy. The grape thrives in the Italian Piedmont region, where it's used in the production of Dolcetto d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Asti, Dolcetto d'Grinolino, Dolcetto d'Dogliani and Dolcetto d'Ovada to name a few. When produced in a responsible manner, the grape displays delightful low-acid reds, perfect for early drinking. These lively wines show flavors of cherry and almonds and can last for up to five years. This makes them great everyday-drinkers from the Piedmont region, which is best known for producing age-worthy wines like Barolo and Barbaresco from the Nebbiolo grape. Outside of Italy, Dolcetto grows on an extremely limited scale in Argentina.

9. Petit Verdot

Petit Verdot is a thick-skinned red wine producing grape varietal native to Bordeaux, France. In Bordeaux, the grape is planted in small quantities and is mainly used by the most quality-conscious left bank producers in their blends. When used in blending, the grape adds color, depth, structure, and a perfume-like characteristic.

Producers in California also use the grape in blends, but single varietal examples also exist. When made on its own, the wines produced are age-worthy, displaying a big, robust, tannic profile with spicy characteristics. Outside of France and California, the grape also grows in Australia, specifically Riverland. One of the most notable producers of single varietal Petit Verdot is Pirramimma, whose Petit Verdot is considered a benchmark by many wine critics. Small plantings of the grape also exist in Chile.

10. Tannat

Tannat is a red wine producing grape varietal native to Southwest France (Basque). Here the grape thrives in the production of Madiran and Irouleguy. In Madiran the grape is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and ages for up to 2 years in oak barrels. The end result is a full-bodied wine with dark fruit characteristics. In Irouleguy the grape is used to make hearty reds and roses. Tannat is also used in blending around the village of Cahors, which is known for its full-bodied reds made from Malbec (called Cot). The wines produced from Tannat are often described as rustic, with firm tannins displaying dark berry fruit.

Outside of France, the grape's home away from home is Uruguay, where it is the country's most famous red varietal. Sometimes called Harriague in Uruguay, the grape seems to fend better in warmer climates. Here it produces softer, riper reds, with raspberry and blackberry characteristics. Small plantings of Tannat also exist in Argentina and the United States.

There you have it, a list of the top ten lesser-known wine grapes. I wanted to put this list together to showcase a few "off the beaten path" varietals. As I mentioned earlier there are thousands of grapes used to make wine, these ten were the ones I felt gave a small taste of what is out there. You may have tasted wines made from these ten varietals before or seen them on shelves, perhaps you didn't even realize it. They are fun finds, and can make for remarkable values in some cases because you don't have to pay for the name. As United States wine consumption continues to grow, so will retail sales. An increase in wine sales will force many overwhelmed retailers to hire wine geeks or pay closer attention to the global market and start looking for interesting wines. I hope this blog will help open the door to a new era of exploratory wine drinking and ultimately fun and enjoyment.

If you have a chance to try some of these wines or if there are any "lesser known" grapes you like, please let me know by emailing me, posting a comment here on the blog, or contacting me on Facebook.

Until next week, thanks for reading.

Salut,
Nicholas Barth

Certified Sommelier

Wine Director

Cru Wine Online

Prosecco anyone? Or should I say Sparkling Glera?

On hot summer days I can think of few greater pleasures than a bottle of Prosecco and a book on the patio. With temperatures in Minnesota heating up to 103 degrees Fahrenheit this week, coupled with a humidity of 96% humidity, I'm thinking about just staying home. I won't even go outside, just open my window a crack and sit near it while reading In Search of Bacchus and drinking Prosecco. Or should I say Sparkling Glera?

Before I explain the Glera/Prosecco debacle we better break the wine world in to two categories: Old World and New World. Old World wine producing countries are basically classic European wine producing countries. France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Austria, and Germany for example. New World wine producing countries are anywhere Old World countries sent prisoners or explorers. Australia, New Zealand, United States, Argentina, Chile are examples of New World countries.

Old World wine producing countries are more focused on site selection, or region, than they are on what grapes are used to make the wine. So commonly Old World wines display the region the grapes were grown in on the label. Chianti for example is a region in Tuscany, Italy where they grow grapes and make red blends using the Sangiovese variety as the base. Another example is Bordeaux, France, a region where they make red wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a few others. In Burgundy, France they make red wines from Pinot Noir and whites from Chardonnay but simply label them as Burgundy or a more specific region or vineyard.

Champagne, Chablis, Vouvray, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Barolo, Amarone, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Tokaji are a few examples of popular wine producing regions in Europe that you may have seen on a bottle. Each of these regions uses different grapes to make wine. Sometimes it's a blend, other times it's a single variety (grape). Of course there are exceptions to the rules. Countries like Germany and Austria commonly put the grape on the label.

New World wine producing countries on the other hand are more focused on grape varieties. Not to say New World wine producers don't care about where they grow them, it's just that the region doesn't tell you what the wine's profile is like. For example if I said Napa what would you describe that wine as? Napa makes wines from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and many, many more. So it would be impossible to label a wine from Napa, California by its regional identity. This isn't just limited to California, all of the New World countries put the name of the grape or their proprietary name (ie. if it's a blend calling it "the red") on the label.

So why did you need to know Old World vs New World wines? Because the label is what scares a lot of people when purchasing. Are most people going to buy a $20 bottle of wine that says Cahors on the label? If they didn't know that Malbec is grape used to make it, probably not. But if people see Malbec on the label and they like big reds, they are more likely to purchase it. We know grape profiles better than we know regional profiles, especially if they are obscure. This has resulted in some Old World producers putting the grape names on the label.

Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene, more simply Prosecco, use to be the best of both worlds; it was the name of the grape and the region in the Veneto, Italy that produces sparkling wine. It was easy to sell Prosecco because you could simply tell the consumer just that "Prosecco is the name of the grape AND the region." There was no more grape/region confusion. But in 2009 the Prosecco region was promoted to the highest Italian status level, DOCG, and so begins the confusion.

In Italy there are basically 4 quality tiers with the best, DOCG, being made from grapes grown on the finest sites in the country. These regions are restricted to specific grapes, styles, labeling and aging requirements, and more. Now that Prosecco is a DOCG it is more valuable, and the Italian government wants to protect it.

Prior to 2009 a producer could make wine outside of the Prosecco region using the Prosecco grape and simply put Prosecco on the label. Because the Prosecco region was only a DOC (the tier below DOCG) nobody really cared. But now that it's top dog, the producers from the region want to eliminate the ability for others to tarnish the name. Enter Glera. Glera is the Prosecco grape's new name. So now if a producer makes sparkling wine from the Glera grape and it doesn't fit in to the DOCG specifications, they can't put Prosecco on the label.

I don't blame the Italians for wanting to protect the name, although they are not making Italian wines any easier to understand. I think my real beef with Italian wines are the DOCG laws in general. I mean, Moscato d'Asti and Prosecco are in the same quality tier as Brunello di Montalcino and Barolo. Don't get me wrong, Moscato d'Asti and Prosecco are delicious and I love them as a nice affordable summer sparkling alternative. But the fact that they are in the same tier doesn't make sense. The best sparkling wines are made when the second fermentation is done in the bottle, this is called the Traditional Method. It is used in the production of Champagne, Cava and many other quality bubblies. Moscato d'Asti and Prosecco are made using the tank method, the process of making the wine in big tanks and shooting them under pressure to the bottles. This is not the most artisan or quality method so it can't be the highest standard in Italy, in my humble opinion.

So Prosecco is the region and Glera is the grape. And while Glera has always been the name of the grape, the region used the Prosecco name to identify it (like Brunello for Sangiovese). They could have at least made up a new name for the producers making Prosecco that don't fall under the DOCG, maybe one that had a better ring to it. If you are a producer across the street from Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG and you have been making "Prosecco" all of your life you now have to change the name to Sparkling Glera? Sexy. More importantly many wine professionals like myself have spent their careers selling and promoting Prosecco and now we have to go back and explain "well, it use to be called Prosecco..."

So for the consumer, not a whole lot has really changed. Prosecco produced in the region will still be Prosecco. Prices will rise a little for Prosecco because it now has DOCG status and parties with the cool cats. But it will still taste and look the same. On the flip side though there maybe a new value find...Sparkling Glera anyone?

As always thanks for reading and if you liked it feel free to pass it along to a friend.

Salut,

Nicholas Barth

Certified Sommelier

Wine Director

Cru Wine Online

See Nick and learn more at www.cruwineonline.com.