Top Ten Lesser Known Wine Grapes

Wine consumption has exploded here in the United States over the last decade. In 2009 we became the number one consumer of wine (by volume) consuming more than 750 million gallons of fermented grape juice. But of that astonishing number, almost 90% of the wines consumed were made up of one or more of the following grapes: Riesling, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (Shiraz). I have deemed these grapes "The Great 8." With some 5000+ grape varieties used in wine production, I wanted to give a shout out to the less common varieties. Here are the top ten lesser-known wine grapes.

1. Aligote

Aligote is a white wine producing grape varietal native to the Burgundy region of France. Often referred to as Burgundy's "other" white grape, it takes a back seat to the greater Chardonnay grape in the region. Aligote is thin-skinned and well known for its apparent, almost tangy acidity. In good vintages, when grown on the best sites in Burgundy, the grape can rival the quality Chardonnays of the region. In Burgundy, Aligote grows in Chablis, the Cote d'Or and the village of Bouzeron within the greater Cote Challonaise region. In Bouzeron, the Aligote variety is king making 100% of the wines produced.

Beyond wine, Aligote is known for its role in the production of Kir, a French liqueur from Burgundy made of white wine (Aligote) and black currants. Outside of Burgundy, the grape is gaining popularity in Eastern Europe and ex-soviet countries with plantings in Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, Moldova, and Georgia. The grape also grows in the United States. Producer Jed Steele makes a dynamite value white using Aligote from Washinton State under his Shooting Star line. Aligote can make some fun, refreshing wines when done well.

2. Picpoul (blanc)

Picpoul, meaning "lip stinger," is an ancient grape varietal native to the southern French region of Languedoc. After Phylloxera devastated Europe in the 19th century, the grape became almost extinct. It was revived in the 20th century by the then booming Vermouth industry. Today the grape's popularity continues to grow, and when done well makes fabulous crisp whites in the Midi, specifically from the Coteaux du Langeudoc Picpoul de Pinet. The wines from Picpoul de Pinet are dry, medium to full-bodied, and display a refreshing acidity with lemon flavors. A delightful find if you can get your hands on one.

3. Torrontes

Torrontes is native to the northwest Galicia region of Spain. Like many varietals, the grape found its way to South America and has become a staple varietal in Argentina over the last decade. The popularity of Argentinian wines in the new millennium resulted in an ocean of good quality wines from the country. Argentinian producers spent the early part of the 2000's creating a cult-like following for their signature Malbec grape, native to France.

As their portfolios grew many producers looked for a white wine producing varietal to share in the popularity of their famous red. For fear of creating a calling card with a Great 8 grape variety producers from the region found success in the lesser-known Torrontes grape. Today much of the quality Torrontes is grown in the warmer, northern Argentinian region of Salta. Torrontes from Argentina is full-bodied, clean, and refreshing with an incredibly aromatic profile that is almost Muscat-like, displaying aromas of flowers and lush green apples.

4. Verdejo

Verdejo is regarded as one of the highest quality white wine producing varietals in Spain. The grape, native to Spain, shows best in the Rueda region. In Rueda, the grape is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to make full-bodied, aromatic, herbaceous whites with nutty characteristics, that can age for the better part of a decade. Verdejo continues to gain international attention, with producers like Shaya (Jorge Ordonez) and Paso Y Paso making outstanding examples for under $15. Verdejo should not be confused with Verdelho, the Portuguese grape used in the production of Madeira.

5. Vermentino

Vermentino is a white wine producing grape variety that grows in both Italy and France. In Italy the grape is most popular on the island of Sardinia (Sardegna), most notably in the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG (DOCG is Italy's highest tier of quality wines). The grape also grows on the French island of Corsica, where it is sometimes called Malvoise de Corse because many believe it to be related to the Malvasia grape. The most exciting examples of Vermentino come from the South of France in the Languedoc and Rousillion regions as well as Provence. In Provence the grape is called Rolle. When done well, Vermentino makes white wines that can be described as aromatic and lively.

6. Bonarda

Bonarda is a red wine producing grape varietal native to Northwest Italy. In Italy the grape is best known for its work in the Oltrepo Pavese region of Lombardy, where it is used on its own and in blends. Outside of Italy, the grape flourishes in Argentina, where it's the second most widely planted red variety, shadowed only by Malbec.

In the 19th century Argentina won its independence from Spain. From 1870 to 1960 the country saw a steady flow of Italian migration, and today nearly 60% of the population has some degree of Italian descent. This is why we see such a presence of the Italian Bonarda variety. Because with travelers came culture, cuisine, and wine. In Argentina the grape is made into light, juicy reds. Like the Italians, Argentinian producers also use the grape in blends.

7. Cinsaut

Cinsaut, sometimes written Cinsault, is a red wine producing varietal most commonly found in Southern France. While French producers do make wine using just the Cinsaut grape, it's widely prized for its light, soft, juicy, perfume-like characteristics that make it a perfect grape for blending. In France, the grape can be found in the Languedoc, Provence, Rhone and Corsica regions. In the Rhone the grape is most notably blended in the production of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Outside of France, the varietal has plantings in Africa. In Northern Africa, Cinsaut is used in Algeria and Morocco making both red and rosé wines. In South Africa the grape's popularity stems from a totally different type of blending. The country's calling card is Pinotage. The Pinotage grape, like many of us, gets its name from its parents: Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. In South Africa, Cinsaut goes by the name Hermitage because it grows in the Hermitage region of the Rhone in France, hence the name Pino-tage. Outside of Africa, the grape has plantings in the United States, where California producers are experimenting with both single varietal Cinsault as well as blends.

8. Dolcetto

Dolcetto is a completely underrated red wine producing grape varietal best known for its work in Northwest Italy. The grape thrives in the Italian Piedmont region, where it's used in the production of Dolcetto d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Asti, Dolcetto d'Grinolino, Dolcetto d'Dogliani and Dolcetto d'Ovada to name a few. When produced in a responsible manner, the grape displays delightful low-acid reds, perfect for early drinking. These lively wines show flavors of cherry and almonds and can last for up to five years. This makes them great everyday-drinkers from the Piedmont region, which is best known for producing age-worthy wines like Barolo and Barbaresco from the Nebbiolo grape. Outside of Italy, Dolcetto grows on an extremely limited scale in Argentina.

9. Petit Verdot

Petit Verdot is a thick-skinned red wine producing grape varietal native to Bordeaux, France. In Bordeaux, the grape is planted in small quantities and is mainly used by the most quality-conscious left bank producers in their blends. When used in blending, the grape adds color, depth, structure, and a perfume-like characteristic.

Producers in California also use the grape in blends, but single varietal examples also exist. When made on its own, the wines produced are age-worthy, displaying a big, robust, tannic profile with spicy characteristics. Outside of France and California, the grape also grows in Australia, specifically Riverland. One of the most notable producers of single varietal Petit Verdot is Pirramimma, whose Petit Verdot is considered a benchmark by many wine critics. Small plantings of the grape also exist in Chile.

10. Tannat

Tannat is a red wine producing grape varietal native to Southwest France (Basque). Here the grape thrives in the production of Madiran and Irouleguy. In Madiran the grape is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and ages for up to 2 years in oak barrels. The end result is a full-bodied wine with dark fruit characteristics. In Irouleguy the grape is used to make hearty reds and roses. Tannat is also used in blending around the village of Cahors, which is known for its full-bodied reds made from Malbec (called Cot). The wines produced from Tannat are often described as rustic, with firm tannins displaying dark berry fruit.

Outside of France, the grape's home away from home is Uruguay, where it is the country's most famous red varietal. Sometimes called Harriague in Uruguay, the grape seems to fend better in warmer climates. Here it produces softer, riper reds, with raspberry and blackberry characteristics. Small plantings of Tannat also exist in Argentina and the United States.

There you have it, a list of the top ten lesser-known wine grapes. I wanted to put this list together to showcase a few "off the beaten path" varietals. As I mentioned earlier there are thousands of grapes used to make wine, these ten were the ones I felt gave a small taste of what is out there. You may have tasted wines made from these ten varietals before or seen them on shelves, perhaps you didn't even realize it. They are fun finds, and can make for remarkable values in some cases because you don't have to pay for the name. As United States wine consumption continues to grow, so will retail sales. An increase in wine sales will force many overwhelmed retailers to hire wine geeks or pay closer attention to the global market and start looking for interesting wines. I hope this blog will help open the door to a new era of exploratory wine drinking and ultimately fun and enjoyment.

If you have a chance to try some of these wines or if there are any "lesser known" grapes you like, please let me know by emailing me, posting a comment here on the blog, or contacting me on Facebook.

Until next week, thanks for reading.

Salut,
Nicholas Barth

Certified Sommelier

Wine Director

Cru Wine Online

La Mancha, No More Stinky Shoe!

As the quality of Spainish wines continues to rise, so does consumption in the United States. From their clean crisp white wines in the northwest to their amazingly value packed sparkling wines, called Cava, in the northeast - the region is producing some well received wines. The country has shed its stinky shoe reputation that plagued the nation in the 1980's and is quickly becoming a major player on the retail shelves in the United States. Wine lovers are drifting from the traditional regions like Rioja and Ribera del Duero and are looking for exciting new values from DO's (wine regions) in the heart of Spain like La Mancha, Jumilla and Manchuela.

These regions in the heart of Spain just a decade or two ago were believed to be the barbecue stain on the nations clean white shirt. La Mancha, for example, received a bad wrap in the 1980's because they had a problem controlling and producing quality juice. The problems started in the vineyard and stuck with the juice all the way to the bottle. In the vineyard growers were harvesting their fruit too late. They let the grapes pass ideal ripeness which resulted in unbalanced grapes to make wine from.

In the winery their facilities were unclean and they couldn't control fermentation (the process of converting grapes in to wine). This resulted in the stinky shoe aroma that unfortunately became their calling card. With a little help from technology they are now able to control the temperature resulting in fresher, brighter, more flavorful wines.

Bright flavors and fresher wines aren't the only La Mancha qualities enticing Americans, the price is an important factor too. Wines from popular regions like Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorat can be expensive. One of the many reasons for this is the use of oak. Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorat use a lot of oak either to cater to the market demand or by law, and oak is expensive. A standard Barrique Bordeaux wine barrel can hold 59 gallons of wine and will make roughly 300 bottles or 25 cases. If you made this size of barrel from Limousin French Oak and applied medium toast (literally burning the inside) to it you would be looking at paying up to $1000 or more per barrel. That's an extra $40 per case, just for oak.

Regions like La Mancha are producing a style of wine that has less oak influence, if any at all. The producers from the region put more emphasis on fruit and freshness than depth and complexion. Because the prices of La Mancha wines are a fraction of those from Priorat if the region does use oak they must come up with clever ways to impart the flavor while trying to maintain a budget. Some examples of their creativity include stainless steel barrels lined with oak staves. This way a winemaker can choose how much oak they want to use and how much surface area they desire without having to pay the price for an entire barrel. In addition to submerging oak staves in to a stainless steel vessel some producers use oak chips or saw dust filled tea bags. Again, helping them impart oak flavor without having to pay for the barrel.

Beyond new winemaking techniques the wine prices from the region remain low because it produces a lot of juice, and I mean a lot. With only 300 wineries La Mancha accounts for almost 40 percent of all the wine produced in Spain. With that much juice they literally flood the market each year with low priced wines.

Now, before you go out and buy every La Mancha wine you can get your hands here are two things you need to know. Buy with caution. There is just as much, if not more, poor quality juice being produced as their is good. When buying a bottle of wine from La Mancha ask your sales rep, store clerk or sommelier about the wine before purchasing. Most of the time the juice is good and that's why it made its way on to the shelf or the list. But buying inexpensive wines to put on end caps or use as house wines can be appealing to some retailers and restaurateurs, so be advised.

Second, La Mancha wines aren't meant to age. The region is hot so the grapes get very ripe. This results in a fruit forward style that is high in alcohol. With only 3 or 4 years of age these wine lose fruit which heightens the alcohol perception. So stay away from anything with too much vintage depth (age). Instead go for the bright, young Tempranillos from the region. These wine display amazing fruit and character for the price. The region also produces quality single varietal and blended wines from red grapes like Garnacha, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.

In terms of green grapes the region grows varieties like Airen (the most widely planted grape in the world accounting for over 30 percent of the grapes planted in Spain), Viura (also called Macabeo and is one of the grapes used in the production of Cava) and Chardonnay. White wines from the region can be a bit too alcoholic, so steer clear of lighter grape varieties like Sauvignon Blanc.

In short, there are some really exciting wines being produced in the region but buy with caution. Thanks to adventurous consumers the quality has gotten better but it still has a long way to go. The only way to encourage more consistency is to support the region and purchase the quality products. So get out there and drink, if for no other reason than to show the world wine market you support quality at a value. Who knows, maybe it will inspire quality production in places like Turkey or better yet some place domestic like Nevada (the two have a similar climate and are on similar latitudinal lines to La Mancha)? If La Mancha can do it, why can't Nevada? Go Rebs!

As always thanks for reading and if you liked this pass it along to a friend.

Salut,
Nicholas Barth

Certified Sommelier

Wine Director

Cru Wine Online

2010 FIFA World Cup Finals: Netherlands 0 - Spain 1

In light of the recent Spanish victory over the Netherlands in the 2010 FIFA World Cup Finals yesterday I decided it only right to post today on the wine laws of Spain. Let me begin by explaining that the wine laws of Spain are difficult to define because they are ever changing. By the time you finish reading this post they will most likely have changed something. Also, this is a little wine geeky, so be advised this does come in video form at Cru Wine Online's YouTube channel.

In this post I'm going to explore the regions governed by the INDO's Ministry of Agriculture. The INDO stands for Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origen. Since Spain's induction in to the EU they, in accordance with EU laws, formed a governing body to regulate and define their wine laws. The INDO specifically regulates regions like Rioja, Jumilla and Cava. Other regions like Cataluna and La Mancha have self-governing wine associations within their delimitation or wine zone.

The INDO laws are broken in to four tiers. The bottom tier or, most basic wines produced, are called Vino de Mesa or Table Wines. VdM's can be regionally blended and bear no vintage or geographic origin. This level is comparable to the basic table wines of France called the Vin de Table or Italy's Vino da Tavola.

The next step up from the basic wines of Spain are the Vino de la Tierra or Wine of the Land. VdlT's are required to state the origin from where the wine was grown and produced and must contain a minimum alcohol content. This is equivalent to the Vin de Pays (now called IGP) of France. But unlike French IGP's the Spanish VdlT is usually a stepping-stone to the highest classification. I say unlike because French IGP's are happy just where they are, no need to go anywhere - they are doing what they want when they want, like a teenager.

The next level of classification is a fairly new category. Better than VdlT and not quite DO status, Vinos de Calidad con Indicacion Geograica or VCIG are the Spanish equivalent of the VDQS's of France. Because of this categories youth it is still being defined and therefore is subject to change. But basically, VCIG’s are in the on deck circle waiting for the call up to the big leagues. The Robin to the greater Batman.

And that brings us to the highest quality (Batman) or the fourth tier of Spanish Wines. Vinos de Calidad Producidos en Regiones Determinadas or VCPRD, which basically translates to Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region. Under the VCPRD are the sub categories of Denomincacion de Origen or DO and Denominacion de Origen Calificada or DOC. VCPRD's are regulated by the Consejo Regulador who define the parameters for growing, making, and marketing quality wine in Spain. Whew, the German wine laws are looking more appealing with every line. (German wine laws are arguably the toughest to understand and pronounce - the words often have 17+ letters)

Back to Spain. DO is the first of the two tiers defining quality wine in Spain. These wines have stricter requirements and a producer must undergo 5 years of examination before even being considered for DO status. There are currently more than 67 DO's including regions like Penedes, Rias Baixas, Ribera del Duero and many more.

Even more quality than a DO status is the DOC. This status is equivalent to Italy's DOCG. There are currently only two DOC's in Spain, Priorat and Rioja. Rioja was the first region to be awarded with the title in 1991. Then in 2003 Priorat was given the accolade. In Priorat, where Catalan is spoken, many refer to the DOC as DOQ or Denominacio d'Origen Qualificada. I know what you are thinking. This is really confusing. But just look at Spain as having 4 tiers of quality and the top tier has an a an b subsection.

To recap, VdM's or Table wines are the most basic, then VdlT's or Wine of the land are next, followed by VCIG and finally VCPRD which has a DO and a DOC sometimes called DOQ. Okay, you are right, this is more confusing than texting my 16 year old cousin.

Strip it down and all you need to know is that Spain is producing a lot of juice, and some is really really good. Stick to the DO's and you'll find some great wines at occasionally remarkable values. Regions like La Mancha and Jumilla are producing some really good juice so keep your eyes open for some delicious values, but buy at your own risk because these hot regions can produce some crappy stuff too.

Spanish wines have really made an amazing turn for the better in the last 20 years; so they don’t all smell of that old stinky shoe aroma you remember from drinking their wines in the 80’s. With producers using regional varietals like Tempranillo and Albarino to internationals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, there are some unique wines being produced.

Still, traditional regions like Rioja continue to make some great quality wines, and not always at exuberant prices. Their regulations on oak and aging requirements are designed for the producer to age the wine for you, so that you the consumer can drink upon purchase.

While this post may have came across as confusing rest assured the INOQ will most likely change the laws next week creating a new system for us to learn anyways, so don’t stress. Just remember that Spain is making a lot of really good quality juice and you can often find some great values.

As always thanks for reading and make sure to check out the Cru Wine TV split on Spanish Wine Laws.

Salut,

Nicholas Barth
Certified Sommelier
Cru Wine Online
Wine Director